Business
DE-LUXE

Luxury’s glow dims, pushing designers to refresh or get left behind

Nia Warfield / Sunday, May 04, 2025
Hermes store in Milan
(Casimiro PT/Shutterstock)

After nearly tripling its economic profit from 2019 to 2024, the global luxury market hit a snag last year, shedding nearly 50 million shoppers. In China, once the industry’s shining star, luxury sales dropped 18% to 20% as shoppers shifted their focus abroad and consumer confidence took a hit. Meanwhile, in the West, many aspirational buyers are keeping a tighter grip on their wallets as savings run dry and worries about inflation and tariff-induced price hikes grow. Now, some of luxury’s biggest players are starting to feel the pinch:

  • LVMH, owner of over 75 brands including Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Tiffany, posted revenues of $23 billion for the first quarter of the year, a 2% drop year over year, as demand cooled in the US and Japan for its fashion and leather — not to mention the drink that makes up the “M” in its name.

  • Kering has had an even rougher ride and reported dismal Q1 sales. Gucci, Kering’s top brand, saw revenue plunge 25%, with steep drops in the US and Asia as the brand struggled to connect with high-end buyers. In a bid to revive Gucci’s buzz, it tapped a controversial new artistic director, which didn’t go great for the stock.

  • Hermès stayed in its own stratosphere, posting record Q4 revenue of $4.15 billion. The premium luxury giant now plans to hike US prices to fully offset President Trump’s tariffs, as demand for its iconic $15,000 Birkin bags and $1,000 belts continues to outstrip supply, despite copycats trying to muscle into its leather domain.

Luxury is in reboot mode. With shoppers more selective as tariffs loom, legacy houses are betting on creative overhauls to keep their brands rare and relevant. The pressure is on: creative director tenures are now shorter than ever, sometimes lasting just a season. While unlikely to upend the entire industry, the narrative is clearly shifting. Analysts now expect the global luxury market to shrink by 2% this year, a sharp U-turn from the 5% growth previously forecast. 

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